My friend and I didn’t make a plan before visiting Bukhara. We were very casual so pretty much we decided what we’d do that day in the morning. So that means we were quite underprepared for the historical sites. And well, it really matters.
When you look at something from 12th century, you’d need some background to be able to appreciate what’s before you. Luckily, there’s internet. You can always go back and pick up what you didn’t understand.
Kalon Minaret is an icon of Bukhara, and for a long time it was the tallest building in Bukhara. It’s used as a Friday minaret which means to call Muslims for prayers. (Well, people back then didn’t have a watch or a loud speaker).
It’s an incredible piece of work, 47m tall with 10m-deep foundations (including reeds stacked underneath in an early form of earthquake-proofing), and has stood for almost nine centuries.
I remember someone told me a story about the wives of the king decided to end their lives by jumping off the minaret when Bukhara was sieged. Err. How sad is that.
The minaret was damaged but now repaired.
The Kalon Minaret did indeed survive the test of the ages, but only to see its skylight shattered by a Soviet shell during the 1920 civil skirmishes. It was subsequently repaired in 1924 and adorned with a bold red flag until excavated in 1964, when centuries of accumulated earth and sand where removed from its base and another two metres added to its official height. The minaret Kalon in Bukhara was further damaged in the 1976 Gazli earthquake, but has since been restored and is now under UNESCO protection. (http://sambuh.com/en/uzbekistan/cities/bukhara-tours-to-bukhara/kalon-mosque-bukhara.html)
There’s a square at Kalon Minaret, sort of like the square in Registan except a lot smaller. Opposite to Kalon Minaret is Mir-i-Arab Madrasah (correct me if I’m wrong!) (the one on the right of the picture below).
Next to Kalon Minaret is Poi Kaylan Mosque. (So the existence of minaret makes sense). It’s open for visit (for a fee). (the one in the bottom left is taken from the mosque)
Poi Kaylan Mosque
The ceiling.
And lots of amazing architectural designs.
I also learned something that day. I saw an old man selling this at the entrance of Poi Kaylan Mosque. I tried to link it with all the religious instruments I had seen, but I just couldn’t figure out what it was.
And this local lady (a customer) explained to us that it was for bread. For bread? Yes, she said every household has a signature stamp. These are stamps. So in this way people will know whose bread they eat.
Probably like this. See you can totally tell these are made by different bakers!
And another tip for you is that if you wish to get a good view of this complex, find a restaurant in the street next to it. We found a random restaurant with a roof-top. (See if you can find it from this angle)
Mir-i-Arab Madrasah and Kalon Minaret
We sat there and enjoyed this great view. It was amazing! And the price was alright! Not expensive (but I can’t recall the price). (Although we went to Folklore and Fashion show with dinner after this)
The typical lagman noodle soup is just perfect for a place like this!
Traveling Mega
